Alison Cook Top 100 2014

39: Brennan's of Houston

September 24, 2014 | Updated: September 24, 2014 7:00pm

Don't fight it, just sink into a vanishing world where more is more. This gorgeous old Creole restaurant with its transporting courtyard is one of the city's food-cultural landmarks. Under the wing of the Commander's Palace branch of New Orleans' famed Brennan family, the Houston restaurant has kept that city's 19th-century fine dining traditions alive, from the old-school hospitality to the classic brunch service and bar. Along the way, they've customized their lavish cuisine to suit Texas, so that chef Danny Trace sears steak in cast iron, pairs Hill Country quail and dumplings with local vegetables, and turns out a big old hickory-smoked beef rib. The legendary strawberry shortcake? It's made with berries from Froberg Farm in Alvin, of course.