Alison Cooks Top 100 of 2015 - Brennan's #81

September 23, 2015 Updated: September 23, 2015 5:36pm
 
Brennan's restaurant's Texas peach salad Thursday, June 3, 2010,in Brennan's Houston in Houston. ( Nick de la Torre / Chronicle ) Photo: Nick De La Torre, Houston Chronicle
Photo: Nick De La Torre, Houston Chronicle
Brennan's restaurant's Texas peach salad Thursday, June 3, 2010,in Brennan's Houston in Houston. ( Nick de la Torre / Chronicle )
 
Why it matters: This beautiful old-school restaurant connects Houston with its sleepier Southern past, not to mention the abiding inspiration we have drawn from New Orleans and Louisiana Creole cuisine. The kitchen may seem less reliable lately, but the good dishes show an entertaining voluptuosity. And the sense of genteel hospitality runs reassuringly deep.

What to order: Texas wild shrimp remoulade; Jimmy's Oyster Roast; oxtails and collard custard; Covey Rise heirloom tomato salad (in season); Cooper Farm peach salad with blue cheese; Louisiana crawfish étouffée; Bourbon-glazed Hill Country quail; Veronica's lemon meringue pie.

Inside track: Do what you can to be seated in the main dining room, where the service from veteran waiters outstrips the relative newbies working the perimeter rooms.

Cuisine: Creole/Cajun
Entree price: $$$-$$$$
Where: 3300 Smith
Phone: 713-522-9711
Website: brennanshouston.com